JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort

There are few places on Earth more sacred to a golfer than the Old Course at St Andrews. Known as the Home of Golf, it had always felt like a dream too far to reach. That dream became real thanks to a good friend of mine who lives in Canada. He extended the invitation and paired us with one of his colleagues, a member at the Old Course.
Our tee time was set for first thing in the morning. I was staying in Edinburgh, so I had to catch the first train out of town and cross my fingers that I would make it in time. The night before, sleep was impossible. I was about to walk the same fairways as Old Tom Morris, Jack Nicklaus, and Tiger Woods.
Adding to the anticipation was the fact that another dear friend of mine is a caddie at the Old Course. I’ll share more on him later. As the train moved through the quiet morning countryside, I stared out the window, trying to imagine what the day had in store. I had no idea it would exceed every expectation I’d ever had.
When the train pulled into Leuchars Station, the sun was just starting to rise, painting the sky with promise. I stepped onto the platform and saw Steve, my friend from Canada, waiting for me. We hugged and made our way toward the course.
As we drove down the A91, passed through the roundabout, and turned left onto Golf Place, The R&A building came into view. I had seen that silhouette countless times on television, in books, and in photographs. But to see it in person was surreal. On the right stood the Dunvegan Hotel, its pub already buzzing with anticipation. We parked, got out of the car, and took a deep breath of the salty sea air rolling in from the nearby St Andrews Bay.
People often talk about how harsh the weather can be in Scotland. But that morning, the sky was perfectly blue, the sun warm on our faces, and not a breath of wind stirred the flag on the first tee. We didn’t have time to hit balls, but we checked in, grabbed a quick coffee, and made our way to the opening hole.
Standing on that first tee, with The R&A building behind me and the wide fairway stretching ahead, was one of the most emotional moments of my golfing life. What made it even more unique was that the four of us all played from different tees, as recommended by the starter. Since we were with a member, we weren’t required to take caddies, and as I was only playing one round on this trip, I hadn’t brought my own clubs. Luckily, Steve had an extra set.
Despite being wide awake with excitement all night and not having hit a single shot to warm up, I managed to find the fairway. A short iron later, I hit the green and walked off with a par. As if that wasn’t enough, I birdied the second hole. For one brief and shining moment, I was under par on the Old Course.
The next few holes reminded me where I was. I encountered deep bunkers, missed greens, flubbed chips, and more than a few shaky putts. But I stayed patient and managed to scramble my way through the front nine.
On the back, I remember one hole where I crushed a drive that ended up in a greenside bunker. My second shot didn’t escape, but I got up and down to save par. Then came the Road Hole. Standing on the tee, I was nervous about how much to cut off. I aimed over the sign, hit a draw, and thankfully missed the hotel. I don’t remember my score on the hole, but I remember Steve hitting a shot in close and making the putt.
After the seventeenth, we walked across the Swilcan Bridge. We paused for photos, taking in every second of that moment. Then came the most intimidating tee shot of the day. The 18th fairway runs right alongside buildings, sidewalks, and parked cars. Pedestrians pass casually over the fairway, oblivious to the drama unfolding on the tee. I hit a safe drive up the left side, steering well clear of the road.
I came up short of the green, as many do, and faced the infamous false front. My ball rolled back, and I ended the day with a bogey. Still, I tipped my cap, shook hands with my fellow players, and smiled from ear to ear. Just then, another friend of mine appeared. He was in town and had timed his walk perfectly, meeting me on the 18th green for a hug and a quick chat.
After golf, we made our way to The New Golf Club, St Andrews. The member we had played with belonged there, and we grabbed pints and sat by the window. We watched groups finishing their rounds on the same holes we had just played, still soaking in the moment.
When it was time to part ways, the member went home, and Steve and his friend headed off to their next destination. I, however, had time to explore. I wandered back to the Dunvegan for another pint. The stories told there could fill a book of their own. Then I walked down North Street, visited the University of St Andrews, and eventually made my way to St Rule’s Tower and the memorial to Old Tom and Young Tom Morris. Golf balls and trinkets lay around the site, left by visitors like me paying tribute.
As the day wore on, I stopped at a couple of breweries before walking into The Jigger Inn. I ordered a whisky and sat outside, watching groups come up the 17th. The Jigger is small, but what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in character. I will never forget that hour in the sun, whisky in hand, watching golf at its birthplace.
As the sun set, my friend John messaged me. He had looped twice that day and wanted to meet before heading home. He gave me a tour of The St Andrews Golf Club, where he is a member. We ended up on the top floor, watching the sky turn gold over the North Sea and The R&A. It was breathtaking.
Eventually, I walked back to the train station and caught the last train to Edinburgh. I smiled the entire ride home. Back at the hotel, I sat in the quiet and reflected on the most magical day of golf I have ever known.
When people ask me about the best course I’ve played, I don’t hesitate. The Old Course. For those who have walked it, I hope your experience was as meaningful as mine. And for those who haven’t, I hope you get the chance. It’s more than a golf course. It’s a pilgrimage.
Thanks to my friend Mike Klemme for giving me a reason to write this all down. And Steve, thank you for the invite. This memory will live in my heart for the rest of my life.
Tiger Woods once said, “St Andrews by far is my favorite golf course in the world.” I agree with him completely.